Friday, January 11, 2008

18th Century Fashion



The 18th century fashion was social life and class structure. The idea was to show your wealth through your dress and belongings. Fashion remained consistent throughout the century until the American and French revolution. The styles and ideas of the previous century carried over.
In the beginning of 18th Century the fashion from the previous century, Rocco Style remained prevalent because Louis XV, was only 5 when anointed king. During this period “the regency” the styles of the earlier century carried over. The court of Versailles was abandoned during this period until Louis was 13, at this time he was of age and court returned to Versailles. Fashions of the times were influenced by his Mistress Madame de Pompadour. Madame Pompadour was a fashion influence, in style and art, including fans hairdos and dresses. The Rocco style was replaced with neoclassical in 1770 until the mid 1800’s. With the help of 1748 excavations at Herculaneum, classic antiquity was revived and this stimulated neoclassical revival.
The lifestyle reflected lavish court. Louis XVI succeeds, marries Marie Antoinette at the age of 14. Marie spends lots of money on clothing, and jewelry, but her country was living in increasing squalor because the American Revolution was being funded by the French. Marie, an Austrian Princess did not agree with the traditions of the French court and abandoned the ideas, this upset the nobility and common man.
Peasant style dress and hats happened when the queen moved to cottage for a country lifestyle in Petit Trianon, a house within the grounds of the palace. This style was adopted and spread through Marie Antoinette. At the close of the century the common man lead a revolt in France and over threw the monarch, beheading the royal family and leading the French revolution. At this revolution fashion moved in the direction of freedom.

The garments of the women’s fashion started underneath; next to the body was a chemise, with lace lined on the neckline. Sometimes the lace would show through at the neckline of the outer garments. Over the chemise were stays which were intended to be visible in the overall garment some wore a stomacher and paniers or wide hooped skirts like farthingales also worn with bustles or false rumps. These undergarments helped shape the silhouette. Petticoats were worn over the panniers. The outer garments consisted of gowns and two piece garments sometimes opened in the front to display the petticoat. The headdress of the 18th century consisted of hair combed back, and bunned or loose curls around the face, the hair was powdered. Extravagant hats and wigs were worn.

The fabrics and details were ornate and extravagant. Increase of trade with the Far East brought imports of eastern textiles including, silk brocades, and damasks, Indian chintz, calico, and muslin, and European copies of the fabrics were made into garments. Fabrics and textiles were fabricated from Velvets, silks, satins, cottons, flax or linens and wool. Fine needles were utilized to produce finer embroidery.
 
The modes in which fashion details were transported were through copying fashion dolls, and plates. In the center of Versailles these dolls were introduced to royalty to sell costume. The dolls would then be viewed by members of court and trickle down the class structure.

The French revolution marked the end of the grand century of class and social structure, the end of lavish lifestyle embarked by our hierarchy. Fashion moved closer in a direction of freedom from sumptuary laws and monarch control.


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